Process of knitting



Aug. 29, 1939. l J. L. GETAz I PROCESS OF KNITTING 4 sheets-smeet 1Original Filed April 17. 1937 Aug. 29, w39.

J.' L. GETAz PROCESS OF KNITTIING v 4 ,sheets-sheet v2 Original FiledApril l17. 1937 l INVENTQR ATTORNEY Y Aug. 29, 1939. J. L. GETAz 42,171,236

PROCESS `O KNITTING original Filed April 17, 1937 sheets-Sheet@vN`VENTOR ATTORNEY f Patented Aug. 29, 1939 PROESS F KNITTING JamesLouis Gotas, Maryville, Tenn.

, Original application April 17, 1937, Serial No, ,l 137,451. Dividedand this application April 12, 1938, Serial No. 201,473

7 Claims.

My invention consists in the novel features the same as is necessary forthe purpose of explaining them, and the said invention is fullydisclosed in the following description and claims. My present inventionconsists in a process of m making an ornamented plain kunit, preferablycircular seamless fabric, having an elastic thread incorporated undertension in certain courses (or in all of the courses) and secured to thefabric at separated wales in each course in which the is elastic threadis knitted, without being drawn in a loop or loops at any point in thefabric, so that the elastic thread, preferably of rubber or the wellknown Lasten, lies in substantially undistortedl lines around thecircular fabric, and

20 with suicient tension to draw the fabric together into verticallydisposed rib-like"ridges, simulating rib knitting.`

The fabric produced by my improved process is not claimed herein asitforms the subject matter of my former application, filed April 17,1937, and given Serial No. 137,451, of which this application is adivision.

In carrying out my present invention, I feed the elastic thread undertension to the needles 3@ in advance of the knitting wave in such mannerthat it passes on the front side of certain needles, usually everyalternate needle, below the latches Athereof and behind the intermediateneedles, so

that it will not be drawn into al loop by either set 35 of needles. Theneedles are then divided into separate groups, and a backing or bodythread is fed to the hooks of all the needles of all the groups, while.a plating threadis fed alternately into the hooks of one group ofneedles and floated o in rear of other groups of needles, the platingthread being fed preferably under slightly greater tension than thebodyd thread so as to appear on the face of the fabric when fed to thehooks of the needles, while the body thread will appear I 45 on the faceof the fabric ywhere the plating thread is floated. Either thebodythread or'the plating thread, or both, may be thrown out of actionand substituted by another thread according to the number of colorsV tobe produced in the fabric. 50 It will be understood that the selectionof the needles which receive the elastic thread in the two waysmentioned, the further selection of the needles into desired andpreferably alternating groups, and the manipulation of the thread 55guides for introducing and withdrawing the body thread, or the platingthread, or both, and substituting a different thread, will all becontrolled by the usual pattern mechanism with which the' knittingmachine is or may be provided, the par-e ticular patterns produced bythe various threads 5 which are knitted to form' the fabric itself, towit, the body thread or threads, and thev plating thread or threads,will ordinarily be of contrastlng colors, and widely varied patterns ofsuch colors as are selected for the purpose may be produced under thecontrol of the pattern mechanism. vIt will also be understood thatduring the knitting of the ornamented fabric, the elastic thread will becontinuously incorporated under tension in the selected courses andfirmly locked 1g in the selected `wales of said courses in the inannerpreviously described, preferably in 'the corresponding wales of each ofsaid courses. The tension of the elastic thread will preferably be vsuchthat the wales formed by the needles which receive the elastic threadbeneath the latches thereof, will be forced to and form the front faceof the fabric, while the wales formed by the intermediate needles willbe forced to and form. the inner face of the fabric, which Willbe drawntogether by the tension of the elastic thread into vertical rib-likeridges, closely resembling ribknit fabric. I l

By reason of' the incorporation of the elastic thread in the fabric inthe manner described, the plain knit fabric Will have imparted to itformy fitting characteristics similar to those of rib knitting, whileat`the same time the floated portions of the elastic thread on the innerface of the Yfabric will form a series of horizontally disposed beads toengage the skin of the wearer and supply a self-supportingcharacteristic to the circular fabric. This fabric finds its greatestuse in the top portion of mens, womens and children's half hose andanklets, and the fabric per se without ,m`

ornamentation is fully disclosed in my former application for LettersPatent of the United States, Serial Number 53,824, filed December 10,1935. My present invention permits of the manufacture of such articlesof hosiery, and particularly those intended for'use by women andchildren, in which the tops ofthe socks or anklets are ornamented so asto present a more attractive appearanceV when displayed for vsale andwhen actually worn in the vdistended condition on the leg of the 50wearer, without interfering with the introduction v of the elasticthread, and fully preserving both the form-fitting and self-supportingcharacteristics of the fabric. 1n this connection it will be readilyunderstood that as the hereinafter described ornamented fabric isdistended in use, the body thread which is used in all the stitches ofthe plain knit fabric will permit all necessary stretch of the fabric toaccommodate the leg of the wearer. and that the float portions of theplating thread will be gathered together by the tension of the elasticthread when the fabric is removed from the knitting machine' and will,with the elasticity of the intervening stitches in which the platingthread is knit, provide .ample elasticarrangement of needles, Athreadguides and cooperating parts in a known type of circular knittingmachine for carrying my invention into effect. l

Fig. 2 is a vertical sectional view of a portion of the knittingcylinder on the line 2--2 of Fig. 1, showing a needle with its co-actingneedle jack, selecting jack, and cooperating cams, the needle being inthe lowered position.

Fig.- 3 is a similar view on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a View similar to Fig. 2on the line 4 -4 of Fig. 1, andshowing a series of secondary selector cam levers, or reader cam levers,as they are sometimes termed.

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 2, on the line 5--5 of Fig. 1. Fig. 6represents a perspective view of a series of needles arranged in astraight line for purposes of illustration, and illustrating the mannerof feeding the elastic thread thereto.

Fig. 7 is a similar viewI showing the manner in which the body orbacking thread is fed to hooks of all of the needles, while the platingthread is fed to the hooks of certain groups of needles and floated inrear of other groups of needles.

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Figs. 6 and 7, showing loops drawn by bothgroups of needles, while the elastic thread passes in a straight linethrough the fabric and is locked in selected wales without forming anyloops in the elastic thread.

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic view of the inner face of my improvedornamented fabric in distended position, showing the arrangement ofstitches to form a particular pattern.

Fig. 10 is a similar view illustrating the exterior face of the fabric.

Fig. l1 is a partial view similar to Fig. 9, showing the inner face ofthe fabric with the tension of the fabric partially released and thefloat portions of the plating threads relaxed.

Fig. 12 represents the upper portion of a sock or anklet, provided witha top composed of my improved ornamented fabric, showing a particulardesign. l

Fig. 13 shows a sock or anklet top formed of my improved ornamentedfabric, and provided with a'dilerent design.

Fig. 14 shows a similar top for sock or anklet illustrating anotherdesign.

Referring to the drawings:

Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, the needle cylinder inl2,171,236 dicated at I,is provided with a circular series of needles, alternate needles beingindicated at 2, and being the needles which receive the elastic threadbelow the latches thereof, the intervening needles of the series beingindicated at 2a, each needle being provided with the usual knitting buttor nib 3 for engaging the usual knitting cams, shown at 4, 5 and 6. Thecam 4 is operated only in connection with reciprocating work, and isshown in dotted lines in Fig. l. Below each needle is a needle jack Iprovided with a cam engaging butt or nib 8, below which' is a selectingjack 9 having portions of its inner edge disposed angularly to otherportions so as to permit it to rock against the action of an encirclingspring 25, engaging said selecting' jacks adjacent to their upper ends.Each selecting jack 9 is provided adjacent to its lower end with aplurality of selecting butts indicated at Ila, IIb, IIc, etc.,preferably twenty-five in number below which is an operating butt I2 fornormally engaginga selector cam indicated at I 3, when the selectingjack is in the position in which it is normally held by the spring 25.This selecting cam I3 is intended to elevate the alternate needles 2which are to receive the elastic thread e (from a suitable thread guidee) below the latches thereof. In order that only the selected needles 2,which are. in this instance alternate needles, shall be raised by theselecting cam I3,

I provide means for knocking down the selecting jacks 9 for theintervening needles 2a, that is to' say, the lower ends of the jacks forthe intervening needles 2a are forced inward so as to carry their buttsI2 out of engagement with the cam I3,

`as shown at the left in Fig. 2. Any suitable means may be employed forthis purpose, and in this instance I have shown a stationary auxiliaryselector cam I6 for engaging one of the butts or nibs Il of the jacksfor the needles 2a, the corresponding butts or nibs of the needles 2being broken off so that the jacks for the needles 2 will not be`knockeddown. As a result of this selection, all of the needles 2 will beelevated by thc selecting cam I3 to such a height that they will receivethe elastic thread e below the latches thereof.. This is accomplished inthe present instance by giving the selecting cam I3 sufficient height tocarry the latches of needles 2 above the point at which the thread guidee delivers the elastic thread, but obviously the elastic thread could befed on the latches of the needles and the needles thereafter elevatedsuiiiciently to carry their latches above the elastic thread, if

desired. The thread guide e" for the elastic thread, is preferablyarranged' to swing horizontally into and out of operative position, so

' that the elastic thread can be fed in every course of knitting, or inselected courses, under the control of suitable pattern mechanism, andthe elastic thread will be fed under predetermined tension, all as fullydisclosed in my former application for Letters Patent of the UnitedStates Serial Number 53,824, filed' December 10, 1935.

These specific constructions form no part of my present invention, andneed not be more particularly referred to.

, The selecting jacks 9 of the intervening needles 2a which are knockeddown by the selector cam I 3, pass alongside ofand within the selectingcam I3, and are not raised. The selecting jacks 9 for the needles 2 willbe returned to normal position by a cam I8 which engages the bu. ls 8 ofthe needle jacks 'I. In'Fig. 3, a needle 2 is shown elevated high enoughto receive the elastic thread by a shedding cam II to the same height asthe alternate needles 2, as shown in Fig. 1. As the Y interveningneedles 2a rise, they pass in front of and behind adjacent needles, thatis to say, in front of the alternate needles 2 below the latchesthereof, and in rear of the intervening needles 2a.

It is now necessary to make a second selection of the needles intoalternating groups. By the ,term group I wish it to be understood that Imay include one or more needles, although as a matter of fact each ofthe alternating groups will ordinarily contain a plurality of needles inorder to produce an effective part of the pattern.` In this instance,and for purposes of explanation, I have shown the needles divided intoalternate groups of three needles each. `This secondary selection can bereadily effected by a Well known form of selecting means with which theScott and Williams spiral machine referred to is provided. Thisselecting mechanism comprises a series of horizontally 'disposed pivotedselecting cam levers, or reader cam levers as they are sometimes termed,a, 2Gb, 20c, etc., as'shown in Fig. 4, usually twenty-five in number, toaccommodate a wide range of patterns. These levers are selectivelyoperated by a series of butts or bits, somewhat similar to the butts II, and arranged vertically on a trick wheel which is movedintermittently in a rotary direction by suitable connections with thepattern mechanism. This mechanism is well known and specifically formsno part of my invention, and it thereforewill not be further illustratednor described. It will be understood that one or more of thelreader camlevers'will be operated at the proper times to knock down certain of theselecting jacks, so as to prevent `their operating butts I2 fromengaging a group selecting cam I3a, the apex of which, indicated at I3b, is higher than the apex of the selecting cam I3, as shown in Fig. 1.

In this instance I have shown only the selecting cam lever 20a ymovedinward by the trick wheel, into position to engage the first butt I Iaon groups of three needles successively, the intervening groups of threeneedles having the butts IIa of their selecting jacks broken off so thatthese `jacks will ride up the cam I3a. In order to make this clear inthe drawings, Figs. 1, 'l and 8, I have indicated the alternate groupsof needles, the jacks of which engage the selecting cam I3a, with abracket under the letter while the alternate groups of threeneedles'each, the jacks of which are knocked down and do not engage theselecting cam I3a, 'are indicated under a bracket by the letter y. Itwill be understood that, as previously stated, all of the needles willhave been raised to a height indicated by the dotted line z, in Fig. 1,after the first selection, previously described, the needles 2 havingbeen raised by the cam I3 and their selecting jacks 9, preferably to thelshedding point, and the intervening needles 2a having been raisedindependently of their jacks by the cam I'I engaging the butts 3 of saidneedles. All of the needles will, therefore,` be at the saine height(indicated by dotted line e), and as the jacks of the selected needlegroups :c approach the apex I3b of the cam l3ntl carrying with theln theneedle jacks 'I, the needle jacks 1 will engage the needles of thegroups a: and raise them to a higher level, indicated by the dotted linez', so as to enable the needles of groups to receive in their hooks acolors.

thread f (which I have termed the plating thread) from a thread feedguide f', while the needles of groups y will remain at the levelindicated by dotted line 2, and will not take'the plating thread f. Allof the 'groups of needles, however, take a body or backing thread b froma thread feed ting wave by cams 5 and 6, engaging their butts 3. Itwill, therefore; vbe seen that all of the groups a: of the needles willtake both the plating thread and the body thread, while the needles ofgroups y will take only the body thread. As the needles engage knittingcams 5 and 6, the groups of jacks which have been raised by theselecting cam I3a, will be carried downward to their normal positions bythe cam I8a, Fig. 1, which engages the butts 8 of the needle jacks 1.

As previously stated, I prefer to provide a plurality of thread feedguides for feeding alternately plating threads of different colors, andlikewise I prefer to provide a plurality of thread feed guides forfeeding body threads alternately of different In this instance, I haveshown in Fig. -1, an auxiliary thread feed guide f2 for feeding adifferent face or plating thread f3, and I have also shown in the samefigurean additional thread feed guide b2 for feeding a different bodythread b3, but I do not limit myself to the use of any particular numberof plating threads or body threads. It will be understood that only oneguide b as the needles are carried down theknitthread guide for aplating thread, and one thread guide for a body thread, are ordinarilyin the feeding position at the same time, the other or others being heldin inoperative position.

While I have, for convenience of reference, indi,- cated the twoinelastic threads of which the fabric is composed as body thread andplating thread,

respectively, it will be understood that vboth of these threads are infact body threads which form the body of the fabric, and are not to beconfused with wrap threads used for ornamenting a body fabric, and whichdo not enter into the structure of the fabric itself.

In Fig. 6 I have illustrated in a straightline for convenience ofdescription, a series of consecutive needles 2 and 2a, after the elasticthread e has been fed thereto, and it will be noted that the elasticthread is interlaced with the needles as previously described, andpasses under the latches of the alternating needles 2 and behind theintervening needles 2a.

In Fig. 7 I have illustrated, ina similar manner, the same needles afterthey have been selected into groups :l: and y, respectively, and havepassed the feeding pointsfor the face or plating thread ,f and the bodythread b. It will be noted tol that the needles of the groups receiveboth the 'l plating thread ,f and the body thread b within their hooks,while the lneedles in groups y receive only the body thread b, while theplating thread ,f is floated behind these needles, as indicated at f4,in Fig. 7.

sov

In Fig. 8 Il have illustrated the Vsame needles in 4 their loweredpositions after passing the knitting Wave, and drawing their loops. Itwill be seen l in this figure, that the needles of groups :c will drawcomposite loops or stitches containing both the body thread b andplating thread f, ity being understood that the plating or face thread,f will be fed under slightly greater tension than the body thread, soas to cause it to appear onthe face of the fabric. 'I'he needles of thegroups y will drawV single loops of the body thread b only,

while the plating thread will be floated, as indicated at f4, on theback of the fabric in rear of those needles. It will also be seen thatas the needles descend, whether of one group or another,

`drawn are single loops or composite loops at the wales formed by theneedles 2a.

In Fig. ,12, I have shown a sock or anklet L provided'with a top T of myimproved plain knit rubber incorporated fabric containing a designselected by me for purposes of illustration, and capablel of beingproduced by the arrangement of selected needles operating in the mannerwhich I have just described' it being understood that this is merely forpurposes of explanation and that any desired pattern can be carried outin any desired colors in the manner previously described.

.Referring to the top T, t represents the usual selvage or welt, whichis preferably formed of a plurality of courses of stitches containingboth the body thread as b, and a plating thread, as f, knitcontinuously, and preferably containing in each course, or in certainselected courses, the elastic thread e, incorporated as previouslydescribed, to form continuous plating. It is only necessary to rotatethe trick wheel so that the selecting cam lever 20a will be returned tonormal position and the selecting jacks 9 for all of the needles willthen be carried up by the group selecting cam I3a to the level indicatedby the dotted line z', when all of the needles will take both theplating thread and the body thread.

The trick wheel is then rotated to throw the selecting cam lever 20ainto-the position shown in Fig. 4, when a series of courses indicated att' in Fig. 12, may be knit in the manner previously described. This willresult in the pattern herein shown in Fig. 12, in a transverse row ofrectangular figures t6 and t1, of which t8 'represents stitches producedby the needle groups .1: containing both the body thread and platingthread in plated relation with the plating thread on the face of thefabric, while the rectangles t1 repre sent stitches of the body threadonly, produced by the needle groups y.

t2 represents aseries of courses of stitches containing a body threadand plating thread throughout, in plated relation, again accomplished byshifting the trick wheel so that none of the needles will be knockeddown, and all will be raised by the cam I3a.

t3 represents a series of courses of stitches containing alternatingrectangles t6, t1, in which the pattern is varied by causing the platedstitches in the rectangles t6 containing both the body and platingthreads'to be knit by the groups y of the needles, while the interveninggroups of stitches 'forming the blocks t1 are knit by the groups :a

of the needles. This is conveniently eected by a. shift of the trickwheel in a well known way to bring another of the selecting Acam levers,as 20h.

into position to engage butts IIb of the groups y of the needles, thebutts IIb of the groups x of the' needlesbeing broken ofi', inaccordance with the well-known operation of the Scott and Wil-l liamsspiral machine, above referred to.

t4 represents a series of courses of continuous plating. t5 represents aseries of courses corresponding exactly to the courses t', and in thisinstance a series of courses, indicated at tl, and

corresponding with the series of courses t of continuous plating,completes this particular design.

It will be understood that the figures indicated at t1 of the design, inthis instance rectangles, will appear in solid color formed-of the bodythread with the plating thread floated on the inner face of the fabric,while the'intervening spaces or figures will present the color of theplating thread. The intervening courses, as t2, t4,- may also presentthe plating thread of the same or a different color on the vsurface oftheA fabric. It will also be understood that either the body thread orthe plating thread, or both, may be changed by shifting the thread feedguides so that a variety of colors may appear in the pattern, or theymay be confined to two colors, as desired. It will also be understoodthat when my improved fabric, as the fabric T for example, is removedfrom the knitting machine, the tension of the elastic thread e in theseveral courses (or all the courses) will'draw the fabric intovertically disposed rib-like ridges resembling rib-work. The wales inwhich the elastic thread is locked at e2 (Fig. 8), will be drawn to theinner face of the fabric, While the intervening wales will be drawn tothe outer face of the fabric. This lateral contraction of the fabricrelieves the float threads, vindicated at f4, and provides slacktherein, which permits thereafter the normal stretch of the fabric as inpulling a stocking over the heel andupon the leg without undulyrestricting the fabric.

In Fig. 9 AI have shown diagrammatically a portion of the inner face ofmy improved fabric y showing the alternating groups of plain stitchesand plated stitches in several courses, and the position of the elasticthreads here shown in every other course:

Fig. 10 is a similar view showing the outer face considerable tension.

Fig. 11 is a partial view of the inside of the fabric with the tensionsomewhat relaxed, show ing the slack in the oats f4 of the platingthread, the elastic threads being still in a state of tension which inthe actual fabric holds the oppositely facing alternating wales closetogether, thus producing a smooth faced fabric comprising the alternatewales which project to the outer face, the intermediate wales beingsubstantially concealed when the fabric is not distended. Obviously,when the fabric is stretched to a greater or lesser extent, as it iswhen it is worn on the leg of the wearer, the units of the pattern willbe slightly extended transversely of lthe top. and will ordinarily showto even better advantage than they do in the undistended condition ofthe fabric.

As before stated, a wide variety of patterns can be produced in a widevariety of colors, and in Figs. 13 and 14 I have illustrateddiagrammatically and suggestively, two additional patterns which canreadily be produced by proper manipulation of the pattern mechanismpreviously described. y

Where in the following claims I have referred to the plating thread anda contrasting body thread, or vice versa, I intend to indicate eithercontrast of color' or contrast of I naterial, or finish, or anyothertype of contrast which will cause one of said threads to be easilydistinguishn able from the other in the fabric.

In an ordinary float plated fabric the presence of floats tends toincrease the width of the fabric and to materially limit and reduce theextent to which it may be stretched. Such fabric is, therefore, notcommercially usable in any part p of the stocking except the leg andfoot. By the incorporation of the elastic thread, as herein described,it is particularly adaptable for use for the top of a stocking, byknitting it so as to pro-- vide the necessary width when stretched,while the elastic threads draw the fabric together to reduce thediameter to form-fitting size, both at and between the elastic carryingcourses, and

producing Aslack in the oats of the body thread on the inner face of thefabric to permit the fabric to be expandedas necessary when drawn on thefoot and leg, in addition to providing the transverse beads on the innerface of the fabric to indent the leg and support the stocking thereon.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented formfitting and self-supporting fabric, which consists in producing continu--ous coursesl of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic bodythreads, introducing in certain courses an elastic threadin front ofspaced selected needles, and in rear of intervening needles, and incertain courses, feeding one of said inelastic body threads in front ofseparated selected groups of needles, and the second inelastic bodythread in rear of said selected groups and feeding both inelastic bodythreads to the intervening groups of needles, in plated relation withsaid second thread on the outer face of the fabric, and applyingsufficient tension to said elastic thread to draw the fabric togetherwhen disengaged from the needles to reduce its diameter and drawwalesthereof together and bring the floated portions of said second inelasticbody thread into slackened condition.

2. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamentedform-fitting Vand self-supporting fabric, which consists in producingcontinuous courses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic bodythreads, and in. certain courses effecting a needle separation to bringspaced selected needles at a higher levelthan non-selected needles, andfeeding an elastic thread under tension in front of said selectedneedles and in rear of the non-selected needles, and in certain courseseffecting an independent needle separation to bring spaced groups ofneedles at a higher level than intervening groups and feeding one ofsaid inelastic body threads to the hooks of the said selected groups ofneedles and the second inelastic body thread in rear thereof, andfeeding both of said inelastic body threads to all the needles of theintervening groups in plated relation, with the said second thread onthe outside of the fabric, and applying sufficient tension to theelastic thread to draw the fabric together when disengaged from tlieneedles, and submerge certain wales thereof, andform vertical rib-likeridges in the fabric.

3. A method of making tubular plain knit seamy less ornamentedform-fitting' Vand self-support- Y ing fabric, which consists inproducing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrastinginelastic body threads, and in certain courses effecting a needleseparation to bring spaced selected needles at a higher level thannon-selected needles,- and feeding an elastic thread under tension infront of said vselected needles and in rear of thel non-selectedneedles,bringing the needles to the same level and thereafter in certain courseseffecting an independent needle separation to bring spaced selectedgroups of needles at a different level to that of intermediate groups ofneedles, feeding one of said inelastic threads to said spaced groupsonly, and floating the second inelastic body thread in rear thereof, andfeeding both inelastic body threads to said intermediate groups inplated relation with the said second thread on the outer face of thefabric, and applying sumcient tension to the elastic thread to draw thefabric together, to bring certain wales thereof intocontact, andsubmerge intervening wales, and thereby form vertical riblike ridges inthe fabric.

4. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamented form-ttingand self-supporting fabric, which consists in producing continuouscourses of plain knitting with two contrasting inelastic body threads,and in certain courses interlacing an elastic thread in front ofv andbelow the latches of alternate needles and in rear of interveningneedles and in certain groups eifecting a needle separation to bringspaced selected groups of needles at a higher level than interveninggroups, and feeding one of said inelastic body threads to the hooks ofsaid selected groups of needles and the second inelastic body thread inrear of said selected groups, and feeding both inelastic body threads tothe hooks of the needles of the intervening groups in plated relationwith the said second thread on the outer'face of the fabric, andapplying suiiicient tension to said elastic thread to draw the alternatewales togetherand submerge the intervening wales of the fabric whenreleased from the needles, and bring the floated portions of said secondinelastic body thread into slackhigher level than intervening needles,feeding an elasticthread in front of and below the latches of saidalternate needlesandin rear of the l intervening needles, bringing saidneedles to a common level, effecting a' second needle separation tobring spaced selected groups of needles at a higher level thanintervening groups, feeding one of said inelastic threads tothe hooks ofthe needles of said selected groups and floating the second inelasticbody thread in rear, of said selected groups and feeding both inelasticbody threads to the hooks of the needles of the intervening groups inplated relation with the second thread on the outer face of the fabricand applying sufficient tension to said elastic thread to draw thealternate Wales of the fabric together and submerge the interveningwales and bring vthe floated portions of said second inelastic bodythread into slackened condition.

6. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamentedform-fitting and self-supporting fabric which consists in producingcontinuous courses of plain knitting with two contrastingJinelasticbodythreads, and in certain courses raising alternate needles, feeding anelastic thread thereto below the latches thereof, bringing the needlestoa common level to interlace said elastic thread therewith, effecting asecond and independent needle separation,`

`bringing spaced selected groups of needles at a u higher level thanintervening groups, feeding one of said inelastic body threads to thehooks of the needles of said selected groups only and floating thesecond inelastic body thread in rear of said selected groups, andfeeding both inelastic body threads to the hooks of the needles oi theintervening groups in plated relation with seid second thread on theouter face of the fabric and applying sufiicient tension to said elasticthread to draw the .alternate Wales of the fabric together whendisengaged from the needles to reduce its diameter, and submergeintervening wales and bring the floated portions of said secondinelastic body thread into slackened condition.

7. A method of making tubular plain knit seamless ornamentedform-fitting and self-supporting fabric by the aid of a circularknitting machine and a single circular series of needles which consistsin producing continuous courses of plain knitting with two contrastinginelastic body threads, and in certain courses raising alv ternateneedles to the shedding point, and feeding thereto an elastic threadunder tension below the latches thereof in advance of the throat,raising the intervening needles to the shedding point to interlace theelastic thread therewith, in certain courses effecting a second needleselection by raising the needles of 'selected alternating groups abovethe shedding point and ieeding to the hooks thereof one of saidinelastic body threads, and iloating it in rear of. the needlesofintervening groups, feeding tlie other inelastic body thread to all ofthe needles of the circular series with the said threadhavingoatedportions on the inside of the fabric, and in certain coursesfeeding both inelastic body threads to the hooks of all the needlesthroughout the entire course in plated relation, and applying sufiicienttension to the 'elastic thread to draw alternate Wales of the fabrictogether and submerge intervening wales, and bring the iioated portionsof the body thread into slackened condition.

JAMES L. GETAZ.

